Today we took the ferry to Varenna, about halfway up the lake. We ate a delicious lunch in an outdoor cafe, walked around the beautiful but tourist-packed town, then returned by fast ferry. Speaking of our fellow tourists, it is notable that France seems to have settled into the off season whereas Italy, or Como at least, is still in high season. We much prefer off season.

Lake Como is long (46 km), thin (4.5 km max), and deep (435 m max). It is surrounded by mountains and lined with villas and beautiful towns that are barely hugging the hillsides. There are no bridges over the lake, no fast highways, and, as far as I know, only two train stations, in Como and Varenna.

The fastest way to get around is by ferry. (There are also a lot of float planes landing/taking off in the water by Como but I don't know anything about them.) Most ferries are slow and make frequent stops but some are fast, either catamarans or boats with curious fins sticking out on either side of their fronts.

The ferry schedules (there are four, one is below) are confusing at first glance. There are 35 or probably more ferry stops which makes for a complex document. Fortunately the ticket office people are happy to explain which ferry to take to get to your chosen destination.

To purchase tickets go to Navigazione Laghi ferry company and for downloadable ferry schedules go to Como lake today.