Your search for Ubud found 35 posts. Select title from list or scroll down to see posts.
 
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Mar 22, 2017, Wed
Mar 22, 2017
  Ubud, Vancouver Isl  
Mar 23, 2017, Thu
Rice paddy with ducks      10.5, Maps, Adapter, Ubud  
Mar 23, 2017
  10.5, Maps, Adapter, Ubud  
Mar 23, 2017, Thu
Mugged again!      XF 18-55, Ubud  
Mar 23, 2017
  XF 18-55, Ubud  
Mar 24, 2017, Fri
Balinese Gates      XF 27, Ubud  
Mar 24, 2017
  XF 27, Ubud  
Mar 25, 2017, Sat
Moving Day      Ubud, XF 18-55, 10.5  
Mar 25, 2017
  Ubud, XF 18-55, 10.5  
Mar 26, 2017, Sun
Ogoh-Ogoh      XF 16/1.4, XF 18-55, Ubud  
Mar 26, 2017
  XF 16/1.4, XF 18-55, Ubud  
Mar 27, 2017, Mon
Ogoh-Ogoh Parade      XF 16/1.4, XF 18-55, Ubud  
Mar 27, 2017
  XF 16/1.4, XF 18-55, Ubud  
Mar 28, 2017, Tue
A Day of Silence      XF 16/1.4, Ubud  
Mar 28, 2017
  XF 16/1.4, Ubud  
Mar 29, 2017, Wed
The Agung Rai Museum      XF 16/1.4, Art, Ubud  
Mar 29, 2017
  XF 16/1.4, Art, Ubud  
Mar 30, 2017, Thu
Mar 30, 2017
  XF 18-55, Ubud  
Mar 31, 2017, Fri
A Morning Offering      XF 18-55, Ubud  
Mar 31, 2017
  XF 18-55, Ubud  
Apr 1, 2017, Sat
What's in a Name?      XF 18-55, Ubud  
Apr 1, 2017
  XF 18-55, Ubud  
Apr 2, 2017, Sun
Neka Art Museum      Ubud, XF 16/1.4, Art  
Apr 2, 2017
  Ubud, XF 16/1.4, Art  
Apr 3, 2017, Mon
Readying the Penjors      Ubud, XF 16/1.4  
Apr 3, 2017
  Ubud, XF 16/1.4  
Apr 4, 2017, Tue
Apr 4, 2017
  XC 50-230, XF 16/1.4, Ubud  
Apr 5, 2017, Wed
What Day is Today?      Ubud  
Apr 5, 2017
  Ubud  
Apr 8, 2017, Sat
Movement      XF 16/1.4, Ubud  
Apr 8, 2017
  XF 16/1.4, Ubud  
Apr 9, 2017, Sun
Balinese Scooters      XF 18-55, Ubud  
Apr 9, 2017
  XF 18-55, Ubud  
Apr 10, 2017, Mon
Photogenic      XF 18-55, Ubud  
Apr 10, 2017
  XF 18-55, Ubud  
Apr 11, 2017, Tue
Around Ubud      XF 18-55, Ubud  
Apr 11, 2017
  XF 18-55, Ubud  
Apr 12, 2017, Wed
Packing Postmortem      XF 27, Ubud  
Apr 12, 2017
  XF 27, Ubud  
Apr 13, 2017, Thu
In Uniform      XF 18-55, XF 27, Ubud  
Apr 13, 2017
  XF 18-55, XF 27, Ubud  
Feb 25, 2019, Mon
Return to Ubud      Ubud  
Feb 25, 2019
  Ubud  
Feb 26, 2019, Tue
Agung Rai Museum of Art      Ubud  
Feb 26, 2019
  Ubud  
Feb 27, 2019, Wed
A walk among rice paddies      Ubud  
Feb 27, 2019
  Ubud  
Feb 28, 2019, Thu
Feb 28, 2019
  Ubud  
Mar 1, 2019, Fri
Under the weather      Ubud  
Mar 1, 2019
  Ubud  
Mar 2, 2019, Sat
Still under the weather      Ubud  
Mar 2, 2019
  Ubud  
Mar 3, 2019, Sun
Offerings      Ubud  
Mar 3, 2019
  Ubud  
Mar 4, 2019, Mon
Mar 4, 2019
  Ubud  
Mar 5, 2019, Tue
Recovering      Ubud  
Mar 5, 2019
  Ubud  
Mar 6, 2019, Wed
Nyepi eve      Ubud  
Mar 6, 2019
  Ubud  
Mar 7, 2019, Thu
The gods want us wet      Ubud  
Mar 7, 2019
  Ubud  
Mar 8, 2019, Fri
On our way to the volcano      Bali, Ubud  
Mar 8, 2019
  Bali, Ubud  
Mar 11, 2019, Mon
Back home      Ubud  
Mar 11, 2019
  Ubud  
 
 
 

Bali vs Vancouver Island

 
March 22, 2017   Ubud, Vancouver Isl
 
 

Just for fun here are some Wikipedia facts for comparing Vancouver Island with Bali.

 

AREA

Vancouver Island: 32,134 km2 (12,407 mi2)

Bali: 5,780 km2 (2,230 mi2)

 

HIGHEST POINT

Vancouver Island: 2,195 m (7,201 ft)

Bali: 3,148 m (10,328 ft), Mount Agung

 

POPULATION

Vancouver Island: 759,366 (2011), 23.94 /km2 (62 /mi2)

Bali: 4,225,384 (2014), 730/km2 (1,900/mi2)

 

RELIGION

Vancouver Island: According to the 2001 census the religious breakout for British Columbia is: none (atheist, agnostic, and so on.) 35.9%, Protestant 31.4%, Roman Catholic 17%, United Church of Canada 9%, and Anglican 8%.

Bali: The island is home to most of Indonesia's Hindu minority. According to the 2010 Census, 83.5% of Bali's population adhered to Balinese Hinduism, followed by 13.4% Muslim, Christianity at 2.5%, and Buddhism 0.5%.

 

CLIMATE

Vancouver Island: The mildest in Canada, with temperatures on the coast in January usually above 0 C (32 F). In summer, the warmest days can rise to 28C (82F).

Bali: As it is just 8° south of the equator, Bali has a fairly even climate year round. Average year-round temperature stands at around 30 C with a humidity level of about 85%.

 

Sources

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vancouver_Island,

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bali

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Columbia.

 
https://jamesgaston.ca/620
 
 

Rice paddy with ducks

 
March 23, 2017   10.5, Maps, Adapter, Ubud
 
 

I'm in Ubud, staying with friends for a few days after which I'll be off on my own. This morning I woke early to the sound of ducks of roosters. Scroll past the maps to the photos which were taken from my bedroom deck.

 
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Bali is the red pointer      
 
Bali is the red pointer      
 
Bali is the red pointer      
 
Ubud is the red pointer      
 
Ubud is the red pointer      
 
Ubud is the red pointer      
 
Rice paddy with ducks      
 
Rice paddy with ducks      
 
Rice paddy with ducks      
 
Rice paddy with pool      
 
Rice paddy with pool      
 
Rice paddy with pool      
https://jamesgaston.ca/623
 
 

Mugged again!

 
March 23, 2017   XF 18-55, Ubud
 
 
You know, when I started they weren't bad for you. Annette Bening on smoking, from the movie 20th Century Women

It's warm and humid but then that's expected in Bali. My friend Emily and I walked into town where I got money from an atm ($1 CAD gets you about 10,000 IDR), checked out a rental property (for Emily and Bill, not me), stopped for refreshments, bought groceries, got mugged by a monkey, then walked home where we cooled off in the pool while a rainstorm passed overhead. As to the monkey, he is of average build, grey in colour, and was last seen heading towards the Monkey Forest while eating my mango.

 
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Starbucks      
Starbucks is on the main street in town and is a useful landmark. My friends live just down the street from this intersection.
 
Starbucks      
Starbucks is on the main street in town and is a useful landmark. My friends live just down the street from this intersection.
 
Starbucks      
Starbucks is on the main street in town and is a useful landmark. My friends live just down the street from this intersection.
 
An intricate temple door      
 
An intricate temple door      
 
An intricate temple door      
 
Emily enjoying a refreshment      
 
Emily enjoying a refreshment      
 
Emily enjoying a refreshment      
 
Enjoying a Bintang      
 
Enjoying a Bintang      
 
Enjoying a Bintang      
 
They aren't kidding      
 
They aren't kidding      
 
They aren't kidding      
https://jamesgaston.ca/624
 
 

Balinese Gates

 
March 24, 2017   XF 27, Ubud
 
 
It's like that with every picture: I don't like the ones I understand. Gerard Richter, in the eponymous movie.

Balinese architecture is said to reflect the Balinese way of life in terms of spatial organization, communal social relationships, and spirituality. This translates to an architecture featuring a spacious courtyard with several small pavilions. A ring wall keeps out evil spirits and statues stand guard.

Of course, often times all you can see of a building is its doorway or gate; it's the building's public face. Ubud features a lot of different looking gates. Some are temples, some offer accomodation, and others are just private homes. So as I walked around Ubud today I photographed some of its eye-catching gates. There are two types of gates within Balinese architecture: the split gate, known as candi bentar, and the roofed tower gate known as paduraksa or kori agung. All the photos below except one are of the roofed tower type.

 
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Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud split gate      
 
Ubud split gate      
 
Ubud split gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
A gate break      
 
A gate break      
 
A gate break      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate      
 
Ubud gate with snarling guards      
 
Ubud gate with snarling guards      
 
Ubud gate with snarling guards      
https://jamesgaston.ca/629
 
 

Moving Day

 
March 25, 2017   Ubud, XF 18-55, 10.5
 
 
Why is it that if you buy a camera you are a photographer whereas if you buy a violin you own a violin. Anonymous

While my friends Bill and Emily have been exemplary hosts I thought it best to move on, that whole fish and guests and how both stink after a few days.

So this morning I packed up, walked 15 minutes south on Jalan Kjeng to Starbucks, turned left on the main drag Jalan Raya Ubud, walked three blocks, then walked north about 15 minutes to a house on Jalan Sri Wedari.

My new lodging is a spacious 2 bedroom 2 bath house with a big kitchen, a large outdoor bathroom, a patio and deck, and a shared pool. More room than I need: I've room for guests should anyone want to jump a plane. Just be aware the whole island of Bali will be closed - and I mean literally closed, streets, sidewalks, airport, everything - this coming Tuesday. More on that later.

The house, or villa as they say in Bali, is in a complex of houses with a shared staff that takes care of housekeeping, gardening, security, and whatever else needs doing. Like breakfast: each morning someone will come cook me breakfast, then clean up. Nice, eh? I'm thinking labor is cheap. This multi-house, shared-staff model is common here.

Unfortunately, between moving and shopping for groceries at the Coco mart and accompanying Emily on another property inspection, between all this I didn't take any interesting photos so instead I've some uninteresting ones of where I'm staying.

I'm listening to Pangkur from Gamelan music of the Jasmine isle. And I'm reading A House in Bali, the Canadian composer Colin McPhee's story of his life and the music of Bali in the 30's. McPhee's pre-tourism Bali is quite different from present-day Bali, but the culture he describes is still here, and you still hear the distinctive trance-like Gamelan music.

 
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Master bath      
 
Master bath      
 
Master bath      
 
Master bedroom      
 
Master bedroom      
 
Master bedroom      
 
Second bedroom and bath      
 
Second bedroom and bath      
 
Second bedroom and bath      
 
Dining and kitchen      
I rented a 2 bedroom 2 bath house which turned out to be charming and comfortable. A little more space than I need but I like the peace and privacy.
 
Dining and kitchen      
I rented a 2 bedroom 2 bath house which turned out to be charming and comfortable. A little more space than I need but I like the peace and privacy.
 
Dining and kitchen      
I rented a 2 bedroom 2 bath house which turned out to be charming and comfortable. A little more space than I need but I like the peace and privacy.
 
Path to house      

There are two roads that pass near my house. One is wide enough for a couple of cars but the second, the one in this photo, is foot and scooter only. My house is hidden behind the trees on the right. This rice paddy has a few really loud bull frogs.

 
Path to house      

There are two roads that pass near my house. One is wide enough for a couple of cars but the second, the one in this photo, is foot and scooter only. My house is hidden behind the trees on the right. This rice paddy has a few really loud bull frogs.

 
Path to house      

There are two roads that pass near my house. One is wide enough for a couple of cars but the second, the one in this photo, is foot and scooter only. My house is hidden behind the trees on the right. This rice paddy has a few really loud bull frogs.

https://jamesgaston.ca/631
 
 

Ogoh-Ogoh

 
March 26, 2017   XF 16/1.4, XF 18-55, Ubud
 
 
Asking Republicans to govern is like asking Barney Frank to judge the Miss America contest; if your heart is not in it, you don't do a very good job. Maureen Dowd

Speaking of doing a good job, it's the day before the Ngrupuk parade and the Balinese people are preparing for tomorrow's festivities by fine-tuning their ogoh-ogohs and practicing their movements. They are also dancing to Gamelan music.

Ogoh-ogohs are demonic statues made of vividly-painted bamboo and styrofoam. They symbolize malevolent spirits. After the ogoh-ogoh have been paraded around the village the Ngrupuk ritual takes place, which involves burning the ogoh-ogoh.

 
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Dancers, Ubud Palace      
 
Dancers, Ubud Palace      
 
Dancers, Ubud Palace      
 
Gamelan music accompanies the dancing      
 
Gamelan music accompanies the dancing      
 
Gamelan music accompanies the dancing      
 
Dancers, Ubud Palace      
 
Dancers, Ubud Palace      
 
Dancers, Ubud Palace      
 
Dancers, Ubud Palace      
 
Dancers, Ubud Palace      
 
Dancers, Ubud Palace      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh rotation practice      

During tomorrow's procession through town each Ogoh-ogohs must rotate counter-clockwise three times at every T-junction and crossroad. Rotating the Ogoh-ogoh represents the contact of the bodies with the evil spirits. It is meant to bewilder these evil spirits so they go away and stop harming humans.

The photos don't do justice to the scene, everyone is happy and laughing and clearly having a good time. Did I mention how friendly the Balinese are? Don't know what they are smoking, or maybe it's in the water, but almost everyone is friendly and welcoming. And most speak English, which makes getting around easy.

 
Ogoh-ogoh rotation practice      

During tomorrow's procession through town each Ogoh-ogohs must rotate counter-clockwise three times at every T-junction and crossroad. Rotating the Ogoh-ogoh represents the contact of the bodies with the evil spirits. It is meant to bewilder these evil spirits so they go away and stop harming humans.

The photos don't do justice to the scene, everyone is happy and laughing and clearly having a good time. Did I mention how friendly the Balinese are? Don't know what they are smoking, or maybe it's in the water, but almost everyone is friendly and welcoming. And most speak English, which makes getting around easy.

 
Ogoh-ogoh rotation practice      

During tomorrow's procession through town each Ogoh-ogohs must rotate counter-clockwise three times at every T-junction and crossroad. Rotating the Ogoh-ogoh represents the contact of the bodies with the evil spirits. It is meant to bewilder these evil spirits so they go away and stop harming humans.

The photos don't do justice to the scene, everyone is happy and laughing and clearly having a good time. Did I mention how friendly the Balinese are? Don't know what they are smoking, or maybe it's in the water, but almost everyone is friendly and welcoming. And most speak English, which makes getting around easy.

 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
https://jamesgaston.ca/633
 
 

Ogoh-Ogoh Parade

 
March 27, 2017   XF 16/1.4, XF 18-55, Ubud
 
 

Today was one of the weirdest, funniest events l've experienced: the Nyepi day eve parade in Bali.

On this day each neighborhood council, which is called a banjar, parades its newly-made ogoh-ogoh monster around town in a ritual said to drive away evil spirits. At the end of the parade the ogoh-ogoh is destroyed by fire.

The parade of ogoh-ogohs is accompanied by a hypnotic soundtrack of Gamelan orchestras. They play unique instruments such as metal drums hit by hammers.

I've seen plenty of parades so this sounds straightforward, think floats and musicians marching down the street with an audience held at a distance by barricades and officials.

Ha. This is not that kind of parade. It's barely-controlled chaos where anyone can be in the parade and the monsters are coming from different directions, with the Gamelin adding a wonderfully pulsy trance background. Everyone, tourists and locals, some in native attire, everyone is laughing and having a great time.

The taller monsters find maneuvering a challenge in Ubud's narrow streets. The colourful demon sits high on a large bamboo lattice carried by a team of young Balinese. Clearly the builders compete for biggest and most outrageous with little thought to clearing the power lines. So some ogoh-ogoh are accompanied by fellows with very long poles that they use to manipulate the web of overhead power lines. Yeah, power lines. Some monsters get caught in the lines so it can take a while to maneuver. (I'm told power outages are common). Once they get through a tangle of wires the crowd bursts into cheers to congratulate them.

The monsters are also tasked to rotate three times at each intersection, and this isn't a simple rotation, the large and heavy monsters swerve like an amusement car ride as they turn. At one point I got caught in a packed crowd and thought I was going to get crushed in the mass of people fleeing the swing of the monster. Ok, that was weird.

After the parade the monsters gather in a field where speeches are made. It grows dark. Finally, joined by torch-bearing girls, the ogoh-ogohs resume their parade, but this time they are destined for their demise.

And with that we all get to rest for a day since tomorrow is Nyepi, the day of silence.

With that in mind, here are a few photos from what was a very photogenic day.

 
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Ogoh-ogoh on Jalan Sri Wedari      
This is my street, Jalan Sri Wedari, and not far from my house. This ogoh-ogoh didn't get very far before it encountered a wayward parked car. It took a tree chopping and some heavy lifting but they eventually got through. They also set off the car's alarm which only added to the cacophony.
 
Ogoh-ogoh on Jalan Sri Wedari      
This is my street, Jalan Sri Wedari, and not far from my house. This ogoh-ogoh didn't get very far before it encountered a wayward parked car. It took a tree chopping and some heavy lifting but they eventually got through. They also set off the car's alarm which only added to the cacophony.
 
Ogoh-ogoh on Jalan Sri Wedari      
This is my street, Jalan Sri Wedari, and not far from my house. This ogoh-ogoh didn't get very far before it encountered a wayward parked car. It took a tree chopping and some heavy lifting but they eventually got through. They also set off the car's alarm which only added to the cacophony.
 
Bamboo lattice holds monster      
 
Bamboo lattice holds monster      
 
Bamboo lattice holds monster      
 
A lot of fellows are needed to support an oogah oogah      
 
A lot of fellows are needed to support an oogah oogah      
 
A lot of fellows are needed to support an oogah oogah      
 
Gamelan provides the soundtrack      
 
Gamelan provides the soundtrack      
 
Gamelan provides the soundtrack      
 
Almost to the main drag      
The ogoh-ogoh is rotated counter-clockwise three times at every T-junction and crossroad. Rotating represents the contact of the bodies with the spirits and is said to bewilder and dispell evil spirits.
 
Almost to the main drag      
The ogoh-ogoh is rotated counter-clockwise three times at every T-junction and crossroad. Rotating represents the contact of the bodies with the spirits and is said to bewilder and dispell evil spirits.
 
Almost to the main drag      
The ogoh-ogoh is rotated counter-clockwise three times at every T-junction and crossroad. Rotating represents the contact of the bodies with the spirits and is said to bewilder and dispell evil spirits.
 
Great music      
Gamelan is the traditional ensemble music of Java and Bali. It's mostly percussive instruments, the most common being metallophones played by mallets and a set of hand-played drums called kendhang which register the beat.
 
Great music      
Gamelan is the traditional ensemble music of Java and Bali. It's mostly percussive instruments, the most common being metallophones played by mallets and a set of hand-played drums called kendhang which register the beat.
 
Great music      
Gamelan is the traditional ensemble music of Java and Bali. It's mostly percussive instruments, the most common being metallophones played by mallets and a set of hand-played drums called kendhang which register the beat.
 
Lots of colourful characters      
 
Lots of colourful characters      
 
Lots of colourful characters      
 
The main intersection in Ubud      
 
The main intersection in Ubud      
 
The main intersection in Ubud      
 
I like the streamers      
 
I like the streamers      
 
I like the streamers      
 
Reminds me of Homer Simpson      
 
Reminds me of Homer Simpson      
 
Reminds me of Homer Simpson      
 
Lifting the power lines      
Many ogoh-ogohs are too tall to pass under the power lines, so instead of making them shorter (that would be my solution) they lift the power lines up with tall poles. It's harder than it looks, and it can take a long time to maneuver. Plus, the ogoh-ogoh is going to come back down this street on its way out so the process is repeated. No one is in a rush, though, so it clearly doesn't matter.
 
Lifting the power lines      
Many ogoh-ogohs are too tall to pass under the power lines, so instead of making them shorter (that would be my solution) they lift the power lines up with tall poles. It's harder than it looks, and it can take a long time to maneuver. Plus, the ogoh-ogoh is going to come back down this street on its way out so the process is repeated. No one is in a rush, though, so it clearly doesn't matter.
 
Lifting the power lines      
Many ogoh-ogohs are too tall to pass under the power lines, so instead of making them shorter (that would be my solution) they lift the power lines up with tall poles. It's harder than it looks, and it can take a long time to maneuver. Plus, the ogoh-ogoh is going to come back down this street on its way out so the process is repeated. No one is in a rush, though, so it clearly doesn't matter.
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Ogoh-ogoh      
 
Gamelan orchestra      
 
Gamelan orchestra      
 
Gamelan orchestra      
 
A small ogoh-ogoh      
Smaller ogoh-ogoh are built by groups of children or local artists.
 
A small ogoh-ogoh      
Smaller ogoh-ogoh are built by groups of children or local artists.
 
A small ogoh-ogoh      
Smaller ogoh-ogoh are built by groups of children or local artists.
 
Didn't see many officials      
 
Didn't see many officials      
 
Didn't see many officials      
 
Nightfall is coming      
 
Nightfall is coming      
 
Nightfall is coming      
 
I like the light      
 
I like the light      
 
I like the light      
 
Where's the parade?      
I found the parade route confusing and l don't think i'm the only one. A 30-year local described the route but it didn't go the way she described. She also said they change the rules periodically. For example this year they forbid styrofoam in the ogoh-ogohs because of the fumes given off when burned. (Duh!)
 
Where's the parade?      
I found the parade route confusing and l don't think i'm the only one. A 30-year local described the route but it didn't go the way she described. She also said they change the rules periodically. For example this year they forbid styrofoam in the ogoh-ogohs because of the fumes given off when burned. (Duh!)
 
Where's the parade?      
I found the parade route confusing and l don't think i'm the only one. A 30-year local described the route but it didn't go the way she described. She also said they change the rules periodically. For example this year they forbid styrofoam in the ogoh-ogohs because of the fumes given off when burned. (Duh!)
 
Gamelan orchestra      
 
Gamelan orchestra      
 
Gamelan orchestra      
 
Hypnotic musicians      
 
Hypnotic musicians      
 
Hypnotic musicians      
 
Gamelan musicians      
 
Gamelan musicians      
 
Gamelan musicians      
 
Monkey boy      
 
Monkey boy      
 
Monkey boy      
 
Great faces      
 
Great faces      
 
Great faces      
 
More great faces and colours      
 
More great faces and colours      
 
More great faces and colours      
 
The gathering in a field      
 
The gathering in a field      
 
The gathering in a field      
 
Their costumes are so colourful      
 
Their costumes are so colourful      
 
Their costumes are so colourful      
 
Torch bearers      
 
Torch bearers      
 
Torch bearers      
 
Young torch bearers      
 
Young torch bearers      
 
Young torch bearers      
 
Ogoh-ogoh lit up      
 
Ogoh-ogoh lit up      
 
Ogoh-ogoh lit up      
 
Last for the night!      
If you got this far congratulations, hope you enjoyed it. I wish i could accompany the photos with the music as I found it absolutely wonderful.
 
Last for the night!      
If you got this far congratulations, hope you enjoyed it. I wish i could accompany the photos with the music as I found it absolutely wonderful.
 
Last for the night!      
If you got this far congratulations, hope you enjoyed it. I wish i could accompany the photos with the music as I found it absolutely wonderful.
https://jamesgaston.ca/635
 
 

A Day of Silence

 
March 28, 2017   XF 16/1.4, Ubud
 
 
For a day people remained at home. Fires were extinguished; lamps might not burn. On that night I would sit in darkness without even a cigarette. The village was now "sepi", empty and quiet. The demons, wishing to return, would surely think it had been deserted and pass it by. Colin McPhee on pre-tourist Bali in his book A House in Bali.

It is seven in the evening in Bali, pitch black out and almost as dark in. Only a glowing screen and a couple of tea lights help me find my way inside the large house. I have just a hint of music playing, some soundtrack by Santaolalla.

To prevent this meager bit of light and sound from escaping I've closed all the outside doors and pulled the shades. I am hiding, like the wartime blackouts, but instead of hiding from the Germans I'm hiding from the demons.

It could be I have it wrong. McPhee wrote almost a century ago whereas all I've heard talk of since arriving in Bali is self-reflection and religion. But I'll go with McPhee's demons, I figure it's like preferring Halloween over Easter. If there really were ogoh-ogohs expelled last night they may need time to dissipate so I'll give them that time, I won't provide any distractions so they can find their way, to somewhere else.

Here's the official story. Today is the Hindu New Year, Nyepi, which is celebrated every spring by a day of silence. Observed from 6 a.m. today until 6 a.m. tomorrow, Nyepi arrives with restrictions: no lighting fires or any other bright lights; no working; no entertainment or pleasure; no movement outside your home except for medical emergencies; and, for some, no talking or eating.

So Bali is closed all day today, even the airport, though since I can't go anywhere I'll have to take their word for it. I don't expect anyone to come into my home to check if I've lit a candle or that I'm writing this blog, but there are said to be Pecalang about, traditional security men who patrol to ensure the prohibitions are followed.

When in Rome ...

 
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Bathroom flowers      
After yesterday's photo-palooza I'm taking a break. Well just one. Since I can't leave the house I shot this colourful plant which is growing in my bathroom garden.
 
Bathroom flowers      
After yesterday's photo-palooza I'm taking a break. Well just one. Since I can't leave the house I shot this colourful plant which is growing in my bathroom garden.
 
Bathroom flowers      
After yesterday's photo-palooza I'm taking a break. Well just one. Since I can't leave the house I shot this colourful plant which is growing in my bathroom garden.
https://jamesgaston.ca/636
 
 

The Agung Rai Museum

 
March 29, 2017   XF 16/1.4, Art, Ubud
 
 
When, on the morning after the day of silence and fireless hearths, Pugig lighted the fire again in the kitchen, it seemed to burn with a new warmth. Voices rose brightly; people set about work with animation. A fresh start had been made once more. Colin McPhee in A House in Bali.

I like almost everything in the Agung Rai Museum of Art, which is about a half hour walk from my house. Their fine collection is housed in beautiful spaces (though the experience would benefit from a/c or even just a bit of ventilation). Their extensive grounds feature a botanical garden, performance space, a hotel, a restaurant (where I ate lunch), even a rice paddy.

The museum focuses on art by Balinese artists and foreigners living in Bali. One building has abstracts, the second realism with Hieronymus Bosch like high-detail pieces depicting life in Bali: the cultivation of rice, cremation rituals, cock fighting, and gods and goddesses.

I especially like the large eye-catching Made Kedol painting "Golden rice" with its vivid bands of rice grass that pop out of the canvas. Stunning. I so wanted to take a picture of it and finally I succumbed: as I walked past its room and saw it framed in the doorway I couldn't resist the urge to grab a surreptitious shot even though the signs expressly forbid it.

 
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Made Kedol's “Golden Rice”      
 
Made Kedol's “Golden Rice”      
 
Made Kedol's “Golden Rice”      
 
Page 10 of museum guide      
My guilt for taking the photo was soon assuaged. The museum's own guide book features a full-page photo of people photographing the picture. Funny.
 
Page 10 of museum guide      
My guilt for taking the photo was soon assuaged. The museum's own guide book features a full-page photo of people photographing the picture. Funny.
 
Page 10 of museum guide      
My guilt for taking the photo was soon assuaged. The museum's own guide book features a full-page photo of people photographing the picture. Funny.
https://jamesgaston.ca/638
 
 

The Gods Must Be Satisfied

 
March 30, 2017   XF 18-55, Ubud
 
 
Each day she placed a little portion of the food she cooked on a shelf above her pots and pans for Batara Uma, and dropped blossoms and betel leaves beside the little pool in the rocks down near the river (from which we got our drinking water) for the spirit of the spring. Colin McPhee in A House in Bali

One of the first things I noticed in Bali are the ubiquitous little pallets of offerings that take many different forms. They may contain leaves, flowers, fruit, incense, even candy bars.

Before most tourists get up each morning the Balinese sweep away the prior day's offerings from around their homes and businesses. Then throughout the day they create more offerings which are everywhere, both underfoot and perched here and there in little shrines. You can walk on them, it's often impossible not to, and I take it that it's the presentation of the offering that matters.

This daily gift of offerings is meant to appease and please the many gods and demons of Balinese Hinduism.

Offerings range from a small and fragrant flower on each step leading into a compound to more elaborate ones to guard the houses doorway and appease the gods represented by statues throughout the house.

The Balinese spend parts of each day creating and dispersing these offerings around their compounds, often accompanied by burning incense. It's all quite lovely. And it's all quite labor intensive.

The offerings in the following photos are all pretty substantial, but I think that's because I was walking on residential streets. In the more commercial areas the offerings are, if anything, more numerous, but they are also simpler.

 
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A big offering      
 
A big offering      
 
A big offering      
 
Offering on the path to my house      
An offering is placed at the start of a small path. The tall shrine on the left is sitting in what looks like an empty lot. It could be for the plants being cultivated on that lot or it could be for some planned construction on this site.
 
Offering on the path to my house      
An offering is placed at the start of a small path. The tall shrine on the left is sitting in what looks like an empty lot. It could be for the plants being cultivated on that lot or it could be for some planned construction on this site.
 
Offering on the path to my house      
An offering is placed at the start of a small path. The tall shrine on the left is sitting in what looks like an empty lot. It could be for the plants being cultivated on that lot or it could be for some planned construction on this site.
 
Galungan poles      
Walking down the street this morning, looking at offerings, I couldn't help notice these long poles. They'll be in next week's Galungan festival which, lucky for me, is almost back-to-back with Nyepi this year.
 
Galungan poles      
Walking down the street this morning, looking at offerings, I couldn't help notice these long poles. They'll be in next week's Galungan festival which, lucky for me, is almost back-to-back with Nyepi this year.
 
Galungan poles      
Walking down the street this morning, looking at offerings, I couldn't help notice these long poles. They'll be in next week's Galungan festival which, lucky for me, is almost back-to-back with Nyepi this year.
 
An offering      
 
An offering      
 
An offering      
 
An offering      
 
An offering      
 
An offering      
 
Galungan poles      
 
Galungan poles      
 
Galungan poles      
 
An offering      
 
An offering      
 
An offering      
 
Offerings      
Presenting an offering involves more than just placement, it's a ceremony.
 
Offerings      
Presenting an offering involves more than just placement, it's a ceremony.
 
Offerings      
Presenting an offering involves more than just placement, it's a ceremony.
 
Everyone enjoys the offerings      
Might have better teeth if he laid off the sweets.
 
Everyone enjoys the offerings      
Might have better teeth if he laid off the sweets.
 
Everyone enjoys the offerings      
Might have better teeth if he laid off the sweets.
 
Monkey enjoying offering      
 
Monkey enjoying offering      
 
Monkey enjoying offering      
https://jamesgaston.ca/639
 
 

A Morning Offering

 
March 31, 2017   XF 18-55, Ubud
 
 

Unlike Vancouver Island, here in Bali the doors and windows are always open, to get a breeze and to listen to the unusual birds, the bullfrogs, and the insects.

One insect buzzes and buzzes and buzzes, steadily for ten, fifteen minutes. For awhile I thought an electrical transformer was malfunctioning, like the one outside our place in Naxos, but I later decided the noise was an insect. I asked Made Girl, one of the housekeepers, for the insect's name but I don't think she hears it as she couldn't answer.

Every morning Made Girl comes to my open double doorway and says "Hello?" before she comes in. She carries a tray with the makings for breakfast. She slips off her flip flops and comes into the kitchen. If there are dirty dishes she will wash them but there never are. At most there are a few on the drying rack to put away.

This morning, like most, Made Girl made me scrambled eggs, toast, sliced fruit, and French press coffee. There is ginger lime marmelade for the toast.

After serving me she asks if I need anything and she asks about tomorrow's breakfast. Most mornings she is talkative, today she is quiet, subdued. I wonder what has changed. She leaves. She'll return in an hour or so, to put away the breakfast dishes that I will have already washed, sweep the whole house, make the bed which I have not made as I find their method too complex, check towels and the drinking water supply.

Spanning this time just outside my open doorway an older woman is presenting offerings. Her ceremony seems to be more drawn out today, perhaps today is special. There are many special days in Bali. She started before breakfast and contines long after breakfast, taking maybe 45 minutes or an hour.

The woman making the offerings carries a large wooden tray piled high with little hand-weaved trays, flowers, leaves, and incense. She sets it on a ledge of the stone shrine.

Slowly, methodically she lifts items from her tray and assembles each offering. She carefully places each offering most of which smoke from incense. She pauses, spending time with each. If she is saying something I don't know, I cannot hear and I don't of course interrupt.

She walks down the hill towards the creek, and later i find another lower down on the path.

I keep thinking she is done, but she revists each offering, adjusting them, pausing, and adjusting them again. She walks towards the water again then returns. She walks up to my doorway, not far from where I am sitting and eating and places a small weaved tray with orange and red flowers and burning incense on my doorsill. Smoke from the incense surrounds her as a shaft of sunlight breaks through, her head enveloped in an ethereal glow for a brief moment. A smoky whiff of incense enters the house.

Finally she returns to the shrine, picks up her tray, and walks away.

Later I look for the offerings, to examine them. I find eight, there are probably more. They blend in with the lush greenery, the bright flowers, the orchids that are growing and flowering on the trees. I find them on my doorstep, on the path by my door, at the base of the shrine, on the shrine, in a branch of a tree, ... Many offerings, many gods to honour.

After breakfast I walk into town to head over to the nearby Ridge Trail. I complete the hike and return home by mid afternoon, just in time for a heavy rainstorm to pass through, which cools things off considerably.

 
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Made Girl bringing breakfast      
 
Made Girl bringing breakfast      
 
Made Girl bringing breakfast      
 
Making offerings      
 
Making offerings      
 
Making offerings      
 
Making offerings      
 
Making offerings      
 
Making offerings      
 
Making offerings      
 
Making offerings      
 
Making offerings      
 
Something completely different      
I'm heading to the Ridge Trail, passing through the hustle-bustle of Ubud's main drag.
 
Something completely different      
I'm heading to the Ridge Trail, passing through the hustle-bustle of Ubud's main drag.
 
Something completely different      
I'm heading to the Ridge Trail, passing through the hustle-bustle of Ubud's main drag.
 
Bali is lush with green      
 
Bali is lush with green      
 
Bali is lush with green      
 
I've no idea what this is      
 
I've no idea what this is      
 
I've no idea what this is      
 
Rice paddy with shrine      
 
Rice paddy with shrine      
 
Rice paddy with shrine      
 
Path and rice paddy      
 
Path and rice paddy      
 
Path and rice paddy      
 
This meal cost 45,000!      

While hiking the ridge trail I stopped for lunch. Cost was 45,000 which is a little over $4.50 Canadian. All those zeroes take getting used to especially as the currency doesn't group them so you get bills marked 10000 ($1), 100000 ($10), and so on. It would be clearer with the addition of some commas or periods, like 100,000.

I don't usually do food shots, I put them in the same annoying category as selfies (why would I think you want to see my ugly face?), but what the hell. I stopped for lunch at a charming cafe by a rice paddy where the food was very flavorful.

 
This meal cost 45,000!      

While hiking the ridge trail I stopped for lunch. Cost was 45,000 which is a little over $4.50 Canadian. All those zeroes take getting used to especially as the currency doesn't group them so you get bills marked 10000 ($1), 100000 ($10), and so on. It would be clearer with the addition of some commas or periods, like 100,000.

I don't usually do food shots, I put them in the same annoying category as selfies (why would I think you want to see my ugly face?), but what the hell. I stopped for lunch at a charming cafe by a rice paddy where the food was very flavorful.

 
This meal cost 45,000!      

While hiking the ridge trail I stopped for lunch. Cost was 45,000 which is a little over $4.50 Canadian. All those zeroes take getting used to especially as the currency doesn't group them so you get bills marked 10000 ($1), 100000 ($10), and so on. It would be clearer with the addition of some commas or periods, like 100,000.

I don't usually do food shots, I put them in the same annoying category as selfies (why would I think you want to see my ugly face?), but what the hell. I stopped for lunch at a charming cafe by a rice paddy where the food was very flavorful.

 
Ridge Trail      
It's an easy hike and the trail is in fine shape but the heat and humidity make every step a little harder.
 
Ridge Trail      
It's an easy hike and the trail is in fine shape but the heat and humidity make every step a little harder.
 
Ridge Trail      
It's an easy hike and the trail is in fine shape but the heat and humidity make every step a little harder.
https://jamesgaston.ca/642
 
 

What's in a Name?

 
April 1, 2017   XF 18-55, Ubud
 
 
In the family there were also four levels. Children had their titles: Wayan, eldest born, Nyoman, Made and Ketut, the fourth.

What happens with a fifth child? I asked Nyoman Kaler.

You begin again, he answered. Colin McPhee, A House in Bali.

I thought it a coincidence that my first contacts in Bali were all named Wayan. But it wasn't a coincidence. Wayan is the most common name in Bali because a child is named according to birth order and Wayan is the name for the first child.

There are alternative names for the first born, such as my airport driver's name Gede, Putu and the girl's-only name Ni Luh, but Wayan is most popular. So when you meet someone from Bali chances are their name is Wayan.

The second child is usually called Made, but Nengah, Ngurah and Kadek also work.

The third-born child is called Nyoman or Komang and the fourth born is Ketut.

After four children, which is a lot for a Balinese family, the names re-start with Wayan, though the fifth child might be called Wayan Balik (Wayan "again"), and so on. Oh yeah, there are no family names in Bali. And pronunciation is easy, names are pronounced just as they are spelled, like Italian.

Speaking of birth order, it is widely believed to have an impact on psychological development. I'm not implying the Balinese subscribe to this idea, more likely naming by birth order serves as a guide to inheritance issues. Or maybe it's just one less decision to make. But it's a curious and oh-so-human example of seeing significance in something that isn't. We believe it because we want it to be true. Birth order theory has been widely studied but no effect has ever been shown. Nevertheless the belief remains, what some call a zombie theory. (See also astrology, religion, etc.)

Today was the first day the heat got to me. Oppressively hot and sticky. I walked into town, I window shopped, I politely turned down the endless entreaties one gets for a scooter-taxi ride - these are mild, almost lethargic entreaties, not the in-your-face Turkish come-ons - I ate lunch, then I returned to my house and, unusual for me, I took a nap.

 
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Nasi goreng breakfast (for Paul)      
 
Nasi goreng breakfast (for Paul)      
 
Nasi goreng breakfast (for Paul)      
 
On a scooter      
 
On a scooter      
 
On a scooter      
https://jamesgaston.ca/643
 
 

Neka Art Museum

 
April 2, 2017   Ubud, XF 16/1.4, Art
 
 
For a picture to be good, he said, it must have a little of everything in it - fighting, a little love, comedy and grief. Like a well-made dish there must be mingled sweet, salt, a taste of acid, a taste of bitter...

And this? I asked, pointing to the incalescent love scene.

He laughed. It gives the savor, he said. Like "sra." Like shrimp-paste. Colin McPhee, A House in Bali

I took a taxi today to the Neka Museum. It's barely two km but I knew even this short walk would leave me drained. I think my muscles are atropying in the heat. I need to get home and start running again.

Ketut, a talkative fellow, asked 60000 for the short trip to the museum which I gladly paid. I don't haggle over small amounts, I think a dollar means more to them than to me. Later in the day, when I'd walked through every building at Neka, studied every painting, examined every sculpture, I messaged Ketut with WhatsApp and he brought me back.

Here's a test: how many older siblings are in my driver's family?

The Neka museum, like the Agung Rai, is a beautiful compound of attractive buildings set amongst lush gardens and soundtracked by noisy birds. And, like the Agung, the Neka specializes in the work of Balinese and ex-pat artists. The Agung Rai has a smaller but equally-beautiful collection but makes up for that in ancilliary facilities. The Neka is just art. Beautiful, mostly-colourful art, with Balinese life as subject. Happily for me, this museum allows photography.

Speaking of art, the streets of Ubud are sprouting huge bamboo stalks of home-made art, and they grow in number every day. Plus the ubiquitous shrines are being draped in colourful fabrics and the offerings seem to be growing in size. It's preparation for yet another special day, or rather days. I'm lucky, two festivals in one trip.

But, I hate to plant this thought in your head, but I find the poles creepy. The pole ends, which are very tall and have elaborate offerings dangling, bring to mind photos of Iranian cranes and nooses that were in the news a couple years ago, scenes that stick with you even though with all your might you try to erase them. Sorry for the disturbing thought.

Enjoy the art!

 
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Arie Smit, Dutch artist in Bali      
 
Arie Smit, Dutch artist in Bali      
 
Arie Smit, Dutch artist in Bali      
 
Cooling Swim, Dewa Putu Mokoh      
 
Cooling Swim, Dewa Putu Mokoh      
 
Cooling Swim, Dewa Putu Mokoh      
 
Underwater Life, I Nyoman Darsana      
 
Underwater Life, I Nyoman Darsana      
 
Underwater Life, I Nyoman Darsana      
 
Detail from previous      
 
Detail from previous      
 
Detail from previous      
 
Neka Museum      
 
Neka Museum      
 
Neka Museum      
 
Neka museum      
 
Neka museum      
 
Neka museum      
 
Life of the artist, Roger San Miguel      
 
Life of the artist, Roger San Miguel      
 
Life of the artist, Roger San Miguel      
 
Arie Smit, Neka Museum      
 
Arie Smit, Neka Museum      
 
Arie Smit, Neka Museum      
 
Neka Museum      
 
Neka Museum      
 
Neka Museum      
 
Galungan is coming      
These tall poles are popping up all over. They are penjor, bamboo poles with offerings suspended at the end.
 
Galungan is coming      
These tall poles are popping up all over. They are penjor, bamboo poles with offerings suspended at the end.
 
Galungan is coming      
These tall poles are popping up all over. They are penjor, bamboo poles with offerings suspended at the end.
 
Poles on Jalan Sri Wedari      
The poles are for Galungan, a Balinese holiday celebrating the victory of dharma over adharma. They mark the time when the ancestral spirits visit the Earth.
 
Poles on Jalan Sri Wedari      
The poles are for Galungan, a Balinese holiday celebrating the victory of dharma over adharma. They mark the time when the ancestral spirits visit the Earth.
 
Poles on Jalan Sri Wedari      
The poles are for Galungan, a Balinese holiday celebrating the victory of dharma over adharma. They mark the time when the ancestral spirits visit the Earth.
 
Chickens (for Shawna)      
 
Chickens (for Shawna)      
 
Chickens (for Shawna)      
 
An especially elaborate pole      
 
An especially elaborate pole      
 
An especially elaborate pole      
https://jamesgaston.ca/644
 
 

Readying the Penjors

 
April 3, 2017   Ubud, XF 16/1.4
 
 
Back they came to work for ten days, only to stop for another month, for the week of galungan was near, the time when the gods came down to earth, and long after they had departed the island would remain in a holiday mood. Colin McPhee, A House in Bali

I'd be lying if l said I planned my visit to Bali so as to hit their top two festivals. No, I had no idea there were any festivals at this time so I'll have to say the gods were smiling on me when I made my travel plans. Perhaps I need to make an offering of thanks.

Galungan, my second Balinese festival, celebrates the victory of good over evil, or dharma over adharma. The festival begins on the 11th week of the 210-day pawukon calendar and it lasts for something like eleven days.

While this Wednesday April 5th is Galungan itself, for the Balinese the preparations begin several days earlier. Ministering to all those gods is a lot of work. As I walk around town I see people - mostly women - working away, constructing the offerings.

Of course there are the penjor, the giant decorated bamboo poles that each household places in front of its home. Shrines are enhanced too with lots of rather gaudy decorations. And then there are several additional tasks. Three days prior to Galungan there is the cooking of bananas. Two days prior (today) is the making of fried rice cakes. One day prior (tomorrow) is the slaughter of pigs and chickens.

So tomorrow is the day of slaughter. Well, I saw chickens being killed last week. One minute they were walking around, a short time later they weren't. As to the pigs I saw something in town today that I wish I hadn't. I certainly didn't photograph it. It was a truck bed containing a number of large pigs, each confined in a cage barely larger than the pig itself. Oh my, I want to get that picture removed from my brain. I don't know what else to say except poor pigs.

On that sad note, let's look at a picture of my street and then pictures of preparation for the festival.

 
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My street      
In Ubud, and much of Bali, the major streets - those wide enough for cars - tend to run north and south, parallel to the streams and rivers carrying water down the mountain. There are not many roads running east west as they would require expensive bridges. What they do have are smaller paths such as this connecting major streets.
 
My street      
In Ubud, and much of Bali, the major streets - those wide enough for cars - tend to run north and south, parallel to the streams and rivers carrying water down the mountain. There are not many roads running east west as they would require expensive bridges. What they do have are smaller paths such as this connecting major streets.
 
My street      
In Ubud, and much of Bali, the major streets - those wide enough for cars - tend to run north and south, parallel to the streams and rivers carrying water down the mountain. There are not many roads running east west as they would require expensive bridges. What they do have are smaller paths such as this connecting major streets.
 
Decorated shrines      
Everyone is decorating their shrines with colourful fabric and flowers. They appear to be wearing sarongs. Note the penjor on the left, ready for being stood up. There are holders embedded in the ground for the penjors.
 
Decorated shrines      
Everyone is decorating their shrines with colourful fabric and flowers. They appear to be wearing sarongs. Note the penjor on the left, ready for being stood up. There are holders embedded in the ground for the penjors.
 
Decorated shrines      
Everyone is decorating their shrines with colourful fabric and flowers. They appear to be wearing sarongs. Note the penjor on the left, ready for being stood up. There are holders embedded in the ground for the penjors.
 
Penjor detail      
Penjors are often staged along the road, held up by a bamboo lattice sitting on the sidewalk. Of course this penjor competes with parked scooters and pedestrians for space on the narrow sidewalks. Pedestrians are lowest priority so I often walk in the street.
 
Penjor detail      
Penjors are often staged along the road, held up by a bamboo lattice sitting on the sidewalk. Of course this penjor competes with parked scooters and pedestrians for space on the narrow sidewalks. Pedestrians are lowest priority so I often walk in the street.
 
Penjor detail      
Penjors are often staged along the road, held up by a bamboo lattice sitting on the sidewalk. Of course this penjor competes with parked scooters and pedestrians for space on the narrow sidewalks. Pedestrians are lowest priority so I often walk in the street.
 
Sign advertising upcoming festival      
 
Sign advertising upcoming festival      
 
Sign advertising upcoming festival      
 
Fine tuning a penjor      
This penjor is unusual in that it is wrapped in red. Note that the penjor is always placed to the left of the gate.
 
Fine tuning a penjor      
This penjor is unusual in that it is wrapped in red. Note that the penjor is always placed to the left of the gate.
 
Fine tuning a penjor      
This penjor is unusual in that it is wrapped in red. Note that the penjor is always placed to the left of the gate.
 
Decorated shrines      
 
Decorated shrines      
 
Decorated shrines      
 
Penjor base with offering      
A penjor has an offering at both the base and dangling from the tip. You can't have too many offerings.
 
Penjor base with offering      
A penjor has an offering at both the base and dangling from the tip. You can't have too many offerings.
 
Penjor base with offering      
A penjor has an offering at both the base and dangling from the tip. You can't have too many offerings.
 
Placing penjor in position      
 
Placing penjor in position      
 
Placing penjor in position      
 
Penjor being readied      

These fellows are taking a penjor out to the street, and getting ready to raise it. The green thing is the offering at the base.

I might mention here that I've no idea how well these pictures are looking if you're not on a tiny screen. For all I know I bolloxed them all up. You see I do everything on an iPhone, well except for the original pictures which are taken with my Fuji. Once I move them to the phone I cut their resolution so they won't take forever to load. Let's say, 15Mb down to about 0.5Mb typically. I cannot tell from here if I've overdone it, I'll know when i get home where i can re-do them if need be.

 
Penjor being readied      

These fellows are taking a penjor out to the street, and getting ready to raise it. The green thing is the offering at the base.

I might mention here that I've no idea how well these pictures are looking if you're not on a tiny screen. For all I know I bolloxed them all up. You see I do everything on an iPhone, well except for the original pictures which are taken with my Fuji. Once I move them to the phone I cut their resolution so they won't take forever to load. Let's say, 15Mb down to about 0.5Mb typically. I cannot tell from here if I've overdone it, I'll know when i get home where i can re-do them if need be.

 
Penjor being readied      

These fellows are taking a penjor out to the street, and getting ready to raise it. The green thing is the offering at the base.

I might mention here that I've no idea how well these pictures are looking if you're not on a tiny screen. For all I know I bolloxed them all up. You see I do everything on an iPhone, well except for the original pictures which are taken with my Fuji. Once I move them to the phone I cut their resolution so they won't take forever to load. Let's say, 15Mb down to about 0.5Mb typically. I cannot tell from here if I've overdone it, I'll know when i get home where i can re-do them if need be.

 
It just keeps coming      
 
It just keeps coming      
 
It just keeps coming      
 
The penjor end finally appears      
Actually I think there is more, the offering on the top is yet to come.
 
The penjor end finally appears      
Actually I think there is more, the offering on the top is yet to come.
 
The penjor end finally appears      
Actually I think there is more, the offering on the top is yet to come.
 
Penjor being staged      
Note the bamboo scaffold that holds the penjor off the ground, ready for being raised into its final position.
 
Penjor being staged      
Note the bamboo scaffold that holds the penjor off the ground, ready for being raised into its final position.
 
Penjor being staged      
Note the bamboo scaffold that holds the penjor off the ground, ready for being raised into its final position.
https://jamesgaston.ca/645
 
 

Odds and Ends, Mostly Birds

 
April 4, 2017   XC 50-230, XF 16/1.4, Ubud
 
 

Even with the doors and windows closed (I've succumbed to running the bedroom's air con) the house is permeated by the sounds of bullfrogs, birds, and insects. It's a bloody symphony out there.

 
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Eggs for breakfast      
 
Eggs for breakfast      
 
Eggs for breakfast      
 
Colour-coded currency      
The red bill in the upper left is a little over $10 Canadian. I don't know the colour of the million bill.
 
Colour-coded currency      
The red bill in the upper left is a little over $10 Canadian. I don't know the colour of the million bill.
 
Colour-coded currency      
The red bill in the upper left is a little over $10 Canadian. I don't know the colour of the million bill.
 
A festive street      
 
A festive street      
 
A festive street      
 
1 BTC = 14,923,633 IDR      
 
1 BTC = 14,923,633 IDR      
 
1 BTC = 14,923,633 IDR      
 
Hmmm      
I've no idea why the shrine needs a ramp. So the cat can go up?
 
Hmmm      
I've no idea why the shrine needs a ramp. So the cat can go up?
 
Hmmm      
I've no idea why the shrine needs a ramp. So the cat can go up?
 
Positioning a pole      
 
Positioning a pole      
 
Positioning a pole      
 
I see many of this bird      
 
I see many of this bird      
 
I see many of this bird      
 
Bird family      
I was just about back at the house when I encountered this chicken family out for a walk. There is no shortage of chickens and roosters in Ubud.
 
Bird family      
I was just about back at the house when I encountered this chicken family out for a walk. There is no shortage of chickens and roosters in Ubud.
 
Bird family      
I was just about back at the house when I encountered this chicken family out for a walk. There is no shortage of chickens and roosters in Ubud.
 
Bird in flight      
I should have used a faster shutter as the bird is blurry. I've plenty of ISO to spare. Sigh. Like I said, it takes practice to catch these and do it well.
 
Bird in flight      
I should have used a faster shutter as the bird is blurry. I've plenty of ISO to spare. Sigh. Like I said, it takes practice to catch these and do it well.
 
Bird in flight      
I should have used a faster shutter as the bird is blurry. I've plenty of ISO to spare. Sigh. Like I said, it takes practice to catch these and do it well.
https://jamesgaston.ca/646
 
 

What Day is Today?

 
April 5, 2017   Ubud
 
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Saka calendar      
 
Saka calendar      
 
Saka calendar      
 
Galungan is the great ten-day holiday which inevitably lasts a month, taking place each thirty weeks. Colin McPhee, A House in Bali

Today is galungan. On this day the Balinese make offerings (hmm, like every day), they decorate shrines, and they visit temples and pray together.

To the visitor what's noticeable is the penjors, of course. These are long (10m) bamboo poles decorated with coconuts, fruits, seeds, tubers, etc. The symbolism of the penjor itself is unclear, with some claiming it represents a specific mountain and a river and others who say asking for an explanation is perhaps besides the point.

Which brings me to the Balinese calendars which you'll notice is plural because there are two, the saka, based on the lunar cycle, and the pawukon, based on rice-growing cycles.

The saka calendar, like our boring old Gregorian calendar, has 12 months of about 30 days. It is aligned with the lunar cycle. The day for Nyepi, the day of silence, is based on this calendar.

In contrast, the pawukon calendar is so complex that you can't help wonder why. It is a 210-day calendar with 10 concurrent week systems of 1, 2, 3, ... and so on up to 10 days. In other words, there is a week that is one day long, a week that is two days, a week that is three days, etc., all on top of each other. The first day of the year is when they all align: it resets all week systems to their first day.

To distinguish them each week has a Sanskrit-derived name, and each of the days of each of the ten different weeks has a unique name. So this means every day has ten different weekday names, one for each of the ten weeks that are going on simultaneously. Whew! Fortunately not all weeks are of equal importance to the Balinese, who tend to pay attention only to the three-, five-, and seven-day weeks.

The intersection of the week cycles tells whether any given day is auspicious, inauspicious, or somewhere in between for a particular activity.

They don't tell you what time it is, they tell you what kind of time it is. Clifford Geertz

Like I said, it is impressive in its complexity and I am sure there is a good reason for it. For more see Wikipedia and balix.com.

So what day is today? All I know is that it's my last day in lush, welcoming, enchanting Bali. I'll remember Bali as a land of friendly people, ubiquitous free WiFi, and colourful fragrant offerings to the gods and demons. They put on a mean parade, too.

I spent my last afternoon and evening at Emily and Bill's home, out on the patio overlooking vivid-green fields of rice. Tomorrow I get on a plane and begin my trek home to Canada.

 
https://jamesgaston.ca/647
 
 

Movement

 
April 8, 2017   XF 16/1.4, Ubud
 
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Ogoh-ogoh team in motion      
 
Ogoh-ogoh team in motion      
 
Ogoh-ogoh team in motion      
 

I took this shot in dead darkness. The ogoh-ogoh teams were gathered on the soccer field after parading around town. The field is in the middle of Ubud and, like much of Bali, the roads around the field are edged with trendy cafes, healing spas, clothing stores, and artsy shops. Not much light though. Most businesses closed early for the parade or to prepare for the day of silence. There were food vendors in the field though. I bought something to eat, a triangle of bread covered with vegetables and tomato sauce which sounds a lot like pizza but he didn't call it that. It was a like a soft pizza. Once I ate I wandered the field, photographing in the dark, hoping to get something of interest. In fact, I got several.

I am happy that this captures for me some nice movement. But I also wonder if it can have the same feel without the actual experience?

 
https://jamesgaston.ca/650
 
 

Balinese Scooters

 
April 9, 2017   XF 18-55, Ubud
 
Sml    Med    Big
 
 
Scooter driver in yellow      
 
Scooter driver in yellow      
 
Scooter driver in yellow      
 

The scooter drivers in Bali annoyed me less than than those in say Palermo or Florence even though they are as insidious. They are parked on every sidewalk. They dart through traffic. They speed down paths. And they are usually loaded with two or three passengers, or boxes of stuff, or chickens, definitely small children, and offerings of course. You can't have too many offerings.

Balinese drivers, car and scooter, make their presence known by beeping an I'm-entering-the-intersection warning at every corner. Beep beep beep.

But I quickly grew used to them. I was even impressed by their politeness. Often the driver would say sorry or thank you as they passed me and I stepped out of the way. The only scooters that scared me were those driven by tourists.

Scooters double as income generators. It seems like every fellow in town is available to drive you somewhere which translates to a large scooter : tourist ratio. I also saw what I interpreted to be pro- and con-Uber signs but then maybe I misunderstood them.

All day long you see lines of young men sitting along the street looking at their phones, using the free WiFi from the neighboring cafe (while their wife / mom / gfriend is at work?). As you pass they hold up a taxi sign or ask "Sir? Taxi?" in a lackadaisical manner. But it isn't offered with much pressure, the Balinese are polite even when they are encouraging you to buy something. This is all very unlike the Turks who transition from aggressive welcome to threatening insult in the seconds spent walking by their business.

 
https://jamesgaston.ca/651
 
 

Photogenic

 
April 10, 2017   XF 18-55, Ubud
 
Sml    Med    Big
 
 
Ogoh-ogoh team      
 
Ogoh-ogoh team      
 
Ogoh-ogoh team      
 
Since Cartier-Bresson's hand wasn't as steady as it used to be, some of the pictures were a bit fuzzy. Sharpness is a bourgeois concept, he said. Helmut Newton in Newsweek

This serves as a lesson to me, pay more attention to shutter speed. I like this photo of a resting ogoh ogoh team despite the fact that its subject, the brightly-dressed young woman on the right, is not in focus. Just like with bird photos, it is better to either freeze motion with a high shutter speed or emphasize movement with a slow speed.

This was shot at 1/160 sec and ISO 200. So I'd say a better value for the auto ISO min shutter speed would be 1/500 or maybe 1/1000. Of course this adds noise, the higher the ISO the higher the noise. But I don't care so much about noise. Noise adds character. And if it's really noisy I try it in b&w.

 
https://jamesgaston.ca/652
 
 

Around Ubud

 
April 11, 2017   XF 18-55, Ubud
 
 

Here are a few photos taken while walking around Ubud.

 
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Starbucks      
Starbucks is the only American food franchise that I saw, and there is only one in Ubud. It's good to know Starbucks not because you need go there for coffee - there are plenty of local offerings - but because it's a useful landmark. It's near the center of town at the corner of Jl Raya Ubud and Jl Kajeng. It is also just down the street from my friends Bill and Emily.
 
Starbucks      
Starbucks is the only American food franchise that I saw, and there is only one in Ubud. It's good to know Starbucks not because you need go there for coffee - there are plenty of local offerings - but because it's a useful landmark. It's near the center of town at the corner of Jl Raya Ubud and Jl Kajeng. It is also just down the street from my friends Bill and Emily.
 
Starbucks      
Starbucks is the only American food franchise that I saw, and there is only one in Ubud. It's good to know Starbucks not because you need go there for coffee - there are plenty of local offerings - but because it's a useful landmark. It's near the center of town at the corner of Jl Raya Ubud and Jl Kajeng. It is also just down the street from my friends Bill and Emily.
 
Shopping in Ubud      
There are no shortage of ways to spend money in Ubud. Lots of clothing, jewelry, shoes, souvenirs, spas, tours, cafes, and lots of yoga. Useful shops, hardware stores and big grocers for example, take a little more of an effort to find.
 
Shopping in Ubud      
There are no shortage of ways to spend money in Ubud. Lots of clothing, jewelry, shoes, souvenirs, spas, tours, cafes, and lots of yoga. Useful shops, hardware stores and big grocers for example, take a little more of an effort to find.
 
Shopping in Ubud      
There are no shortage of ways to spend money in Ubud. Lots of clothing, jewelry, shoes, souvenirs, spas, tours, cafes, and lots of yoga. Useful shops, hardware stores and big grocers for example, take a little more of an effort to find.
 
A cafe in Ubud      
Cafes in Ubud are attractive and service and food very good. And free Wifi is ubiquitous.
 
A cafe in Ubud      
Cafes in Ubud are attractive and service and food very good. And free Wifi is ubiquitous.
 
A cafe in Ubud      
Cafes in Ubud are attractive and service and food very good. And free Wifi is ubiquitous.
 
Rice paddy and villas      
Ten minutes walk from Starbucks and you can be staring at a pretty rice paddy, as in the photo. Along with the rice plants there may be a cow, and there are likely lots of quacking ducks. You'll also see farmers doing the work necessary to cultivate the rice. Unfortunately the paddies are being encroached by development, as shown by the row of villas bordering the paddy.
 
Rice paddy and villas      
Ten minutes walk from Starbucks and you can be staring at a pretty rice paddy, as in the photo. Along with the rice plants there may be a cow, and there are likely lots of quacking ducks. You'll also see farmers doing the work necessary to cultivate the rice. Unfortunately the paddies are being encroached by development, as shown by the row of villas bordering the paddy.
 
Rice paddy and villas      
Ten minutes walk from Starbucks and you can be staring at a pretty rice paddy, as in the photo. Along with the rice plants there may be a cow, and there are likely lots of quacking ducks. You'll also see farmers doing the work necessary to cultivate the rice. Unfortunately the paddies are being encroached by development, as shown by the row of villas bordering the paddy.
https://jamesgaston.ca/653
 
 

Packing Postmortem

 
April 12, 2017   XF 27, Ubud
 
Sml    Med    Big
 
 
Jalan Kajeng      
The short, car-passable section of Jalan Kajeng.
 
Jalan Kajeng      
The short, car-passable section of Jalan Kajeng.
 
Jalan Kajeng      
The short, car-passable section of Jalan Kajeng.
 
Resurfacing the path      

About ten minutes walk down Jalan Kajeng the narrow street turns into a path. No cars, just scooters and foot traffic. It is where you see these fellows who were hired by the local property owners to resurface the much-used path. Their paving technique is to pour fresh cement on top of the existing crumbly path.

 
Resurfacing the path      

About ten minutes walk down Jalan Kajeng the narrow street turns into a path. No cars, just scooters and foot traffic. It is where you see these fellows who were hired by the local property owners to resurface the much-used path. Their paving technique is to pour fresh cement on top of the existing crumbly path.

 
Resurfacing the path      

About ten minutes walk down Jalan Kajeng the narrow street turns into a path. No cars, just scooters and foot traffic. It is where you see these fellows who were hired by the local property owners to resurface the much-used path. Their paving technique is to pour fresh cement on top of the existing crumbly path.

 
Path to Orange Marmelade cafe      
A short walk off of Jalan Kajeng is a cooking school and the charming Orange Marmelade cafe.
 
Path to Orange Marmelade cafe      
A short walk off of Jalan Kajeng is a cooking school and the charming Orange Marmelade cafe.
 
Path to Orange Marmelade cafe      
A short walk off of Jalan Kajeng is a cooking school and the charming Orange Marmelade cafe.
 

I packed light for Bali. A checked suitcase for largely-synthetic clothes. A raincoat. Sandals. A carry on for toiletries and electronics. The only thing I missed was a large empty bag to carry purchases home. I would have also missed packing an umbrella but every place I stayed supplied large umbrellas.

I bought another bag in Ubud. I thought it flimsy but I decided to gamble it would survive one trip. It did. I quickly filled it with wooden masks and a big wooden bird. I should have got a bigger bag, I would have bought more. The masks, coconut sized, came from a charming Timor couple who own a store-full of temptations. The bird came from another store, one with an equally friendly and talkative saleswoman. The bird came disassembled. Assembled it's pretty big. It's yet to find a home.

I hand laundered my clothes every night and then dried them under a ceiling fan which solves the clothes drying problem. Bali is very humid so you can't assume stuff will dry overnight. But under a fan they do. Outside in the shade it takes longer. In a bathroom with a leaky ceiling it takes much longer.

As to footwear most wear flip flops. Not me. It's hard to not trip on a sidewalk. They've missing tiles, unexpected steps, and the occasional deep hole that I guarantee will injure you if you don't see it. That said, the sidewalks are better than those in Buenos Aires.

 
https://jamesgaston.ca/654
 
 

In Uniform

 
April 13, 2017   XF 18-55, XF 27, Ubud
 
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Going home      
 
Going home      
 
Going home      
 
Helmets are for tourists      
 
Helmets are for tourists      
 
Helmets are for tourists      
 
All aboard      
 
All aboard      
 
All aboard      
 

I've not seen many uniformed school kids in North America but it's a common sight elsewhere. Like these kids in Ubud who are heading home, either walking or catching a ride.

 
https://jamesgaston.ca/655
 
 

Return to Ubud

 
February 25, 2019